Behind the Scenes - My Workflow

Have you ever wondered how your favourite pole dance wear company designs new polewear pieces? Today I will give you a peek into my workflow and see what kind of work and attention goes into each piece I make.

What I’ve outlined here are the general design and production flow. For specifics on how I make a custom outfit for you, from quote to delivery, check out [My Process] page.

Brainstorming

I start by sketching some ideas. I will sketch out anywhere from 5 to 10 versions of a top or bottoms. If I’m doing a themed piece, I will collect images for inspiration and make a mood board.

Drawing

I pick my favourite set and draw a colour fashion illustration. Next to it, I list the important details. For clients, I will do a digital illustration, but for myself, I usually do a pencil sketch.

Pattern

I pull out my drafting textbooks, patterns I have drafted and my “slopers.” A sloper is the master pattern template. It’s traced and manipulated to create patterns. I draft all my patterns in-house and don’t use commercial patterns.

Marker

I will make a “marker” for large productions and garments that have lots of pieces. A marker paper is the fabric cutting guide. I create it by arranging the pattern pieces on paper for the most efficient cutting layout. I trace the pattern pieces onto the paper. The marker paper is then pinned to the fabric and cut out.

Shopping

I will usually do a comparison shop online of fabric stores, followed by a trip to my local fabric store. Sometimes I go to the thrift store to find unique clothing that can be repurposed and upcycled.

Cut & Sew the sample

For client work, I launch into making the final garment and leave room for adjustments at the fitting. For production pieces, I make a sample piece. Based on the size of the model who will try it on (at this point it’s just me), I cut and sew the garment with less expensive fabric.

Fitting

It’s time for the moment of truth with a fitting. I try on the pieces and see how they fit. I will pin and mark up the fabric for any changes that are needed.

Adjust garment & pattern

I will make the changes to the fabric garment and the paper pattern. If there are a lot of changes, I will remake a sample piece and do another fitting.

Do finishing

Finally, I will do the finishings and details. I test run the hemlines, necklines and decorative stitches.

Fitting and test run on pole

For the final fitting, I take the pieces for a test run on the pole. For client work, this would be the dress rehearsal stage. At this point, there should be very little to adjust or change on the pieces.

Finish pattern & Grade it for sizes

I make sure to track all the changes to the garment on the paper pattern so that this piece can be remade in the future. For pieces going into production, I will also ‘grade’ the pattern. Grading is creating multiple sizes out of the base pattern.

And there we have it! From start to finish, [My Process] and how I develop a new design from conception to creation. For your own costume contact me.

Ash, signing off!