Wigs? Wigs. Wigs!
- Ash McKay
- Apr 17, 2023
- 9 min read
So you want to wear a wig for your next pole routine?
I’ve got you covered! I’ve worn wigs on and off stage and have a few tips for the wig-curious out there.
I’m going to be dropping a lot of terminology on you right at the start. You can use it as a reference when going to purchase a wig. The styling tips are below.
Index
Basic Terminology - Parts of a wig
Fibres
The individual hairs are called the fibres of the wig.
Wefts
These are the fibres that are sewn together to make a string of fibres called a weft. If you’ve ever gotten hair extensions done, it’s the same idea.
Wig Cap
This is the base that the wefts and fibres are attached to. These are made out of mesh, lace and elastic.
Hair Cap
This is different from a wig cap. It’s a net or nylon you wear over your real hair to contain and compress it to your scalp.
Wig Head/Mannequin Head
Comes in a variety of materials, Styrofoam being the most common. Not necessary, but very helpful for holding the wig while styling, as well as displaying wigs. Here you can see I've added plastic wrap and tape to fill out the shape and match it closer to the size of my head.
Types of Wig Caps
Standard Wig Cap
This is the most common type of cap you’ll find when looking for wigs. It’s inexpensive and easy to modify. The wefts of hair are sewn to a lattice of elastics and lace to create the wig. See the inside in the picture below.
Skin Cap
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
A skin cap wig will have a plastic or rubber cap with strands of hair coming through it. This will give a more realistic look where it will look like the hair is attached to the skin.
Some wigs may be a standard wig cap with a “skin top”, meaning it’ll have a plastic top to create a realistic-looking hair part. This is a good budget-friendly way to get some hint of skin under the hair. An important note, the more area the skin cap covers, the more heat it’s going to trap on your head.
Skin cap is less popular than it once was with more people opting for a…
Monofilament Cap
Photo Source: Headcovers.com
Instead of plastic, the top of the wig is constructed with a very fine mesh. The hair fibres are threaded through the mesh. These wigs are a more budget-friendly version than their skin cap sibling. They also breathe much better.
Lace Front Wig
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
Lace front wigs have gotten a lot of attention recently. It’s a favourite of many drag queens and for good reason. A lace front can be added to any of the above-mentioned wig types. It’s a very fine mesh (aka the lace) that is attached to the front of the wig. Individual hairs are sewn into the lace to create a natural-looking hairline. The lace is trimmed and glued to the wearer's forehead. These wigs will run you higher than your standard wig, but what they offer is natural-looking hair and versatility in styling.
Types of Fibers
Synthetic
Traditional
When you think of a synthetic wig what do you think of? Probably one of those shiny plastic wigs from the Halloween shop. In actuality, there is a range in quality of synthetic wigs, from Halloween shop wigs to high-end cosplay & Drag synthetic wigs. The important thing I want to bring up here is that unless it’s otherwise specified by the manufacturer, you CAN NOT use heat to style these wigs. They will melt.
Pro tips from Ash
If you have a plastic-shiny wig there are a few things you can do to reduce it. Shampooing wig a wig shampoo might be enough. You can also try dry shampoo powder. If this doesn’t work I have one more suggestion. This may damage your wig, so proceed with caution; you can spray your wig with a mixture of fabric softener and water (1-2 tbsp of softener to 500 ml of water). It will reduce the shine and make it appear more matte. This can also be used to revive old wigs by relaxing frizzy fibres.
New Heat Styleable
Many manufacturers have created lines of synthetic wigs that are heat-styleable.
For example, Arda wigs say their “CLASSIC fibre [wigs are] heat-resistant up to 420°F / 215°C, and SILKY to 350°F / 175°C. [They] suggest using styling tools in the 250-300°F /120-150°C range to extend the lifespan of your wig.”
Styling tools set too high may still damage the wigs, but otherwise, you can treat styling these wigs much the same way you style your own hair.
Human Hair
Human hair is going to be the most expensive fibre option you get for a wig. There’s not much to say about it. Due to its high price tag, it’s not a common choice for performers. The pros are that they can be styled with heat tools and regular hair care products. Human hair wigs can also be washed with your usual shampoo and conditioner. In general, they will behave the way you expect hair to behave.
What To Do With Your Real Hair
You’ve got the wig, you’ve got the outfit. You’ve tried it on and you’re looking fab, but oh no! The whole effect is ruined by your own hair peeking out from beneath your wig. I have some tips on how to avoid that!
Hair Caps
This is a net or nylon you wear over your real hair to contain and compress it to your scalp. They come in a variety of colours to match with your skin. I highly recommend using a hair cap. They do a fantastic job holding your hair in place and keeping stray stands tucked in.
Braiding for Long Hair
If you have long hair, I’ve had great success French (or Dutch) braiding my hair before pinning it flat to my head. Avoid twisting it or piling it up; this will create a lump.
Attaching the Wig to your Head
Hairpins
Hairpins can be used to attach the wig to your head once you get the wig on. Secure the pins by crossing them to make an X. Think about how to hide the pins under the wig hair. I’ll use the hairpins under the wefts of hair and pin through the cap itself, to secure the wig to my head. That way you can strategically pull curls overtop the pins to cover them.
Hair Clips
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
These are usually sewn to the inside of the wig cap. The combs will hold onto your real hair under the wig. This will offer a lot of security but may take some trial and error using them.
Prosthetic or SFX Glues
For applying front lace wigs, Spirit Gum (from Ben Nye or Mehron) or other special FX prosthetic glues work wonders. For SFX glues, you need the corresponding dissolving agent to remove them from your skin. All SFX brands will sell these separately or as a kit. These glues are specially designed to be applied to the skin, but as always test new products on the inside of your elbow for an allergic reaction.
Never use glues not intended for your hair or skin on your real hair or skin, this includes but is not limited to Gorilla Glue, wood glue and super glue.
Styling The Wig
Non-Heat Styling
Wide Tooth Comb
Wide toothcombs or brushes especially designed for wigs are a must for brushing out and detangling wigs. Regular brushes or combs have finer teeth, making them more likely to snag and pull the hair fibres, causing them to break and frizz.
Cutting
I went from a baby cosplayer too afraid to cut my wigs to an adult pole dancer… who’s still afraid to cut my wigs. I’ve never done extensive cutting, but I’ve broken the seal and trimmed some of my wigs to give them the shape I was looking for. There are a lot of great hair-cutting and wig-cutting tutorials online that can explain better than I can. The worst-case scenario is you cut too much. You can always get wefts in a matching colour and sew them in to cover up your sins. Or totally rework the style! Either way, there’s no need to be afraid to cut your wigs. Now if I could listen to my own advice…
Hair Spray
Any hairspray you trust on your hair will work just fine for your wig. I personally like Göt2be Flex Insta Hold and Aussie’s Insant Freeze Hair Spray.
Styling Glue
Göt2be hair styling glue is the one I’ve seen most often recommended. It holds very well and is easy to work with, giving you a few minutes to work the hairs into place before setting. You can always apply more if needed, or even wash it out and restyle it.
I’ve seen people use wood glue for styling their wigs. This is great for rock-hard holds needed in elaborate updos you might have seen on a drag performer. The downside of this is that the wood glue is not going to wash out, limiting your restyling options.
Important Reminder: DIY glues, such as wood glue, should only ever be applied to the wig fibres, not to your real hair or skin. When styling your wig, set it on a mannequin head, not on your head to avoid accordantly glueing the wig to your head.
Heat Styling
With Heat Tools
If you’re working with a heat-resistant synthetic wig (or human hair), you’re in luck. Heat tools such as blow dryers, curling irons, straighteners and crimpers can be used on your wig. Always follow the heat tolerance and styling recommendations set by the manufacturer.
With Hot Water
Photo Source: Epic Cosplay.
Heat-resistant Wigs can also be styled with a hot water bath.
To create curls, section out the hair.
Wrap around foam curlers or rags.
Bring a pot of water to a boil. Take the pot off the heat.
Submerge the curls in the water for 5 - 10 seconds.
Remove from water and let cool before removing the curlers.
Place the wig on a stand or head to allow it to dry. One thing to note is to place the wig stand on a surface so the curls can rest and aren’t pulled down by gravity before they dry.
Hairspray it to your heart's content.
Source and additional pictures at Epic Cosplay.
To turn a curly wig into a straight wig, follow the same steps without the curlers and allow the wig to hang while drying so the fibres can be pulled straight.
Add-ons
Wefts
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
You can buy individual wefts from companies that produce wigs. These can be sewn in to add volume, add colours or cover up cutting mistakes. Oops!
Ponytails, Braids, Buns & Bangs
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
Some companies sell ponytails, braids, buns and bangs that can be purchased and clipped into an existing wig or into your real hair.
Get creative with it
Combining multiple wigs to create a custom style and colouring
Photo Source: Arda Wigs
There’s a world of possibility if you’re willing to cut and sew wigs together. You can create custom split colours or layer different lengths and colours together. The world is your oyster!
Dying wigs
Synthetic wigs can’t be dyed like normal hair.
Use fabric dyes meant for synthetic fabric like Rit DyeMore Synthetics or Jacquard iDye Poly.
These dyes require heat to work, so your wig must be heat-resistant. This process will also remove curls, you will need to re-style the wig after dying it.
Test on a sample weft before dying your whole wig.
It’s easiest to go from lighter to darker; if you want to go lighter, it will require bleaching the wig. I’ve never done this before, but I would recommend using a volume 20 bleach or going the hydrogen peroxide method, as this will be the gentlest on the fibres.
I’ve also seen people have great success using Sharpies to do detailed colouring, like giving a wig darker roots.
Performance time!
Hold up! Before we get to the big day, we have to test this! Run as many rehearsals as you can manage with your wig. You need to get used to wearing it while performing and now is the time to find out if you secured it to your head properly.
I was messing around, choreographing a routine while wearing one of my long curly wigs. I quickly realized I didn’t enjoy wearing the long wig while dancing. It felt like it was just getting in the way. I switched to a short wig and I’m glad I did. It’ll be a matter of personal preference though, as I’ve seen Drag Queens perform in long beautiful wigs and they make it work.
It would be a bummer of a time to find out on performance day that you hate the wig you spent all that time and money on. Unless you already have a wig laying around, I recommend free-styling a few dances with a cheap Halloween costume wig before springing for a high-quality one. You may even decide that the budget-friendly wig is right for you. I’ve gotten a lot of mileage out of my Halloween wigs.
Where to buy?
Budget-friendly:
Halloween/Party Stores
Amazon
High Quality:
Local Wig shops
That's all for this month! Thank you for reading,
Ash
Sources and additional reading:
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